Department of Design

FTF publications

This site features the most recent academic contributions of Fashion/Textile Futures research group.


Piippo, R., Niinimäki, K., Aakko, M. (2022) Fit for the future; Garment quality and product lifetimes in a CE context. Sustainability, 14, 2, 726.

Gomes, G.M.; Moreira, N.; Bouman, T.; Ometto, A.R.; van der Werff, E. (2022) Towards Circular Economy for More Sustainable Apparel Consumption: Testing the Value-Belief-Norm Theory in Brazil and in The Netherlands. Sustainability 2022,14, 618.


Aakko, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2021). Quality matters: reviewing the connections between perceived quality and clothing use time. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 1361-2026.

Chun, N. (2021). Fashion Design Rediscovered: A Theory on Dressmaking. The Design Journal, 24(1), 97-114.

Chun, N. (2021). Dressmaking Rediscovered: When Design Meets Fashion in Helsinki. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture. (forthcoming).

G. M. Gomes, N. Moreira, D. R. Iritani, W. A. Amaral & A. R. Ometto (2021): Systemic Circular Innovation: Barriers, Windows of Opportunity and An Analysis of Brazil’s Apparel Scenario, Fashion Practice,

Hot or Cool Institute (2021). Targets for Slowing Down Fast Fashion: Submission to the Public Consultation for the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles. Hot or Cool Institute, Berlin, German. Kirsi Niinimäki has been an expert in this report.

Korhonen, A. & Niinimäki, K. (2021). Framing Regenerative Fashion. The Responsible Fashion Series, University of Antwerp, Belgium and online, 15-16.10.2021 and 20.-22.10.2021.

Lauri, P. (2021). PERSPECTIVES TO A LIVING DESIGN MEDIUM: First encounters with a fermented indigo vat. Ruukku Studies in Artistic Research:15

Niinimäki, K. (2021). Clothes Sharing in Cities; the case of fashion leasing. In J. Corcoran and T. Sigler (Eds.), The Modern Guide to the Urban Sharing Economy. Cheltenham Glos, UK: EdwardElgar publisher, 254-266.

Niinimäki, K., Durrani, M. & Kohtala, C. (2021). Emerging DIY Activities to Enable Well-being and Connected Societies. International Journal of Craft Research, 12(1), 9–29.

Niinimäki, K. & Turunen, L. (2021). Value-driven fashion cultures through eco-luxury. In P. Bertola et al. (Eds.)Fashioning social innovation; Design empowering communities to foster sustainability in culture intensive industries. In part II: Fashion cultures and sustainability. Florence, Italy:Mandragora publisher. (forthcoming).

Niinimäki, K. (30.8.2021). From fast to slow; how to construct a better balance in the fashion system. Georgtown journal of international affairs, Walsh School of International Service, Georgtown University, USA.  

Niinimäki, K. (8.2.2021). How the clothes industry turned into entertainment. Hothouse Solutions, Simple climate action, issue 23, USA.

Pantouvaki, S., Fossheim I., Suurla, S. (2021) Thinking with costume and material: a critical approach to (new) costume ecologies. Theatre and Performance Design, 7:3-4, 199-219.

Piippo, R. & Niinimäki, K. (2021). Garment quality and product lifetimes. PLATE Product Lifetimes and The Environment 2021 - Conference Proceedings. The University of Limerick, online, 26-28 May. 

Särmäkari, Natalia & Annamari Vanskä. 2021. ‘Just Hit a Button!’ – Fashion 4.0 Designers as Cyborgs, Experimenting and Designing with Generative Algorithms. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education.  

Särmäkari, Natalia. 2021. “Digital 3D Fashion Designers: Cases of Atacac and The Fabricant” Fashion Theory.  

Särmäkari, Natalia. 2021. “Digital Fashion” on Its Way from Niche to the New Norm. In “The New Normal”: Sartorial and Body Practices of the Quarantine Era [«НОВАЯ НОРМА»: гардеробные и телесные практики в эпоху пандемии] edited by Liudmila Aliabieva. Pp. 117-134. Moscow: The New Literary Observer, Fashion Theory Russia.


Airaksinen, M., Räsänen, O., Ilen, E., Häyrinen, T., Kivi, A., Marchi, V., Gallen, A., Blom, S., Varhe, A., Kaartinen, N., Haataja, L., Vanhatalo, S. (2020). Automatic Posture and Movement Tracking of Infants with Wearable Movement Sensors. Scientific reports, 10(1), 1-13.

Groth, C. Pevere, M., Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2020). Conditions for Experiential Knowledge Exchange in Collaborative Research Across the Sciences and Creative Practice. CoDesign International Journal of CoCreation in Design and the Arts, 12(4), 328-344.

Lauri, P. (2020). Isolation in Colours. Online exhibition. <

Karell, E. & Niinimäki, K. (2020). A Mixed-Method Study of Design Practices and Designers’ Roles in Sustainable-Minded Clothing Companies. Sustainability, 12(11), 4680. 

Mohajeri, B., Kauranen, I., Nyberg, T., Ilen, E., Nelson, M. & Gang, X. (2020). Improving sustainability in the value chain of the apparel industry empowered with social manufacturing. Proceedings of the 15th IEEE Conference on Industrial Electronics and Applications, ICIEA 2020. IEEE, 235-240.

Niinimäki, K. & Durrani, M. (2020). Repairing fashion cultures: From disposable to repairable. In McNeill, L. (ed.), Transitioning to Responsible Consumption and Production. Basel: MDPI AG, 154-168.

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. and Gwilt, A. (2020). The Environmental Price of Fast Fashion. Nature Reviews; Earth and Environment, 1, 189–200.

Niinimäki, K. & Karell, E. (2020). Closing the Loop: Intentional Fashion Design Defined by Recycling Technologies. In Vignali, G., Reid, L. F., Ryding, D. & Henninger, C. (Eds.), Technology-Driven Sustainability: Innovation in the Fashion Supply Chain, 7-25. Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan.

Särmäkari, Natalia. 2020. ”Digital 3D-Fashion: Designing for Virtual Bodies and Spaces”, Virtually (Un)Dressed: Researching the Body in the Digital Age, 2020 Dress and Body Association Conference November 13-14, 2020  

Särmäkari, Natalia & Annamari Vänskä. 2020. “Open-Source Philosophy in Fashion Design: Contesting Authorship Conventions and Professionalism.” Synergy - DRS International Conference 2020, 11-14 August, proceedings edited by Stella Boess, Ming Cheung and Rebecca Cain, 2410-2426.   

Särmäkari, Natalia. 2020. “From Worth to Algorithms: The Role and Dimensions of Authorship in the Field(s) of Fashion Design”. Chapter 11 in Aesthetics in Dialogue: Applying Philosophy of Art in a Global World edited by Zoltán Somhegyi & Max Ryynänen, 149-167. Berlin: Peter Lang.   

Valle-Noronha, J., Chun, N., & Assis, J. (2020). Failed Expectations, Successful Disruptions: Experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspectiveInternational Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education.

Veske, P. & Ilen, E. (2020). Review of the end-of-life solutions in electronics based smart textiles. Journal of Textile Institute.


Chun, N., Gurova, O. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Fashion Dreams or Fashion Business. Helsinki as an Emerging Fashion Scene. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 55, 238-258.

Durrani, M., Niinimäki, K. & McLaughlan, S. (2019). Designing for and with Garment Repair: an Exploration of Future Possibilities. In PLATE (Product Lifetimes and the Environment) - 3rd International Conference, 18-20 September 2019, Berlin, Germany.

Groth, C., Pevere, M., Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). When Art meets Science: Conditions for experiential knowledge exchange in interdisciplinary research on new materials. In EKSIG, International conference of the DRS special interest group on experiential knowledge, 23-24 September, Tallinn, Estonia.

Harlin, A., Jussila, K., & Ilen, E. (2019). Smart Textiles and Garments. In P. Roshan (Ed.), High Performance Techical Textiles, 1 ed, 58-61. USA: John Wiley & Sons Inc.

Henniger, C., Bürklin, N. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). The Swapping Phenomenon – When Consumers become Suppliers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 23(3), 327-344.

Hirscher, A.L., Mazzarella, F., Fuad-Luke, A. (2019). Socializing Value Creation Through Practices of Making Clothing Differently: A Case Study of a Makershop With Diverse Locals, Fashion Practice, 11(1), 53-80.

Hirscher, A.L., Mazé, R. (2019). Stuff Matters in Participation: Infrastructuring a Co-Sewing Café. Journal of Peer Production. Issue 13.

Ilen, E., Acosta Leinonen, N., Ranta, J., Airaksinen, M., Haataja, L., & Vanhatalo, S. (2019). User Experience of Wearable Infant Sleep Monitoring System for Medical Research and Diagnostics. In Proceedings of the 19th World Textile Conference, Universiteit Gent.

Ilen, E., Groth, C., Ahola, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Empathy in a Technology Driven Design Process: Designing for Users without a Voice of their Own. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Espoo, Finland.

Karell, E., & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Addressing the Dialogue between Design, Sorting and Recycling in a Circular Economy. The Design Journal, 22(sup1), 997-1013.

Karell, E. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Deconstructing the Clothing Design Process for a Circular Economy. In PLATE (Product Lifetimes and the Environment) - 3rd International Conference, 18-20 September 2019, Berlin, Germany.

Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Towards sustainable textile materials: Potential Pathways and Dialogues between Disciplines. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Espoo, Finland.

Määttänen, M., Asikainen, S., Kamppuri, T, Ilen, E., Niinimäki, K., Tanttu, M., Harlin, A. (2019). Colour management in CE; Decolourization of cotton waste. Research Journal of Textiles and Apparel, 23(2), 134-152.

Niinimäki, K. (2019). Renewing technology-driven materials research through an experimental co-design approach. The Design Journal, 22(sup1), 1775-1785. 

Nimkulrat, N., Kuusk, K., Valle-Noronha, J., Groth, C. & Tomico, O. (eds.) (2019). Knowing Together - Experiential Knowledge and Collaboration. Estonian Academy of Arts: Tallinn.

Salolainen, M., Leppisaari, A. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Transforming Fashion Expression through Textile Thinking. Arts, 8(1), 3.

Tubito, C., Earley, B., Ellams, D., Goldsworthy, K., Hornbuckle, R., Niinimäki, K., Östmark, E., Sarbach, V. & Tanttu, M. (2019). Applied DDMI: A white paper on how design-driven material innovation methodology was applied in the Trash-2-Cash project. A Trash-2-Cash project report.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). Becoming with Clothes. Activating wearer-worn engagements through design. Doctoral dissertation. Espoo, Finland: Aalto ARTS Books.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). On active pricing or A critical perspective on end of season sales in fashion retail. Annals of the 15º Colóquio de Moda, 2-6 September 2019, Porto Alegre, Unisinos. 

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). The body within the clothes. Ruukku (10).

Valle Noronha, J., & Valle Noronha, M. (2019). Iron while still damp. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Nordic Design Research Conference, Espoo, Finland.


Aakko, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2018). Fashion Designers as Entrepreneurs: Challenges and Advantages of Micro-size Companies. Fashion Practice, 10(3), 354–380.

Aakko, M. (2018). Unfolding Artisanal Fashion. Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 23(4-5), 531-552.

Durrani, M. (2018). The becoming of repair: Understanding garment mending through a practice theory perspective. In  Heuer, M., & Becker-Leifhold, C. (Eds.). Eco-friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behaviour. Routledge.

Durrani, M. (2018). Designers by any other name: Exploring the sociomaterial practices of vernacular garment menders. In Design Research Society International Conference: Catalyst. DRS International Conference Series, 4, 1731-1746.

Durrani, M. (2018). “People Gather for Stranger Things, So Why Not This?” Learning Sustainable Sensibilities through Communal Garment-Mending Practices. Sustainability, 10(7), 2218.

Hirscher, A.L., Niinimäki, K., Armstrong, C. (2018). Social Manufacturing in the Fashion sector: New value creation through alternative design strategies? Journal of Cleaner Production, 172, 4544-4554.

Karell, E. (2018). Design for Circularity: The Case of In K. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy, 96-127. Espoo, Finland: Aalto ARTS Books.

Kataja, K. & Kääriäinen, P. (eds.) (2018). Designing Cellulose for the Future: Design-Driven Value Chains in the World of Cellulose (DWoC) 2013-2018. Final project report. Helsinki: Copy-Set.

Lucero Vera, A., Karyda, M., Hirskyj-Douglas, I. & Moslemian, O. (Eds.) (2018). Proceedings of SIDeR ‘18: 14th Student Interaction Design Research Conference. Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture.

Niinimäki, K., Salolainen, M., & Kääriäinen, P. (2018). Opening up New Textile Futures through Collaborative Rethinking and Remaking. In N. Nimkulrat, U. Raebild, & A. Piper (Eds.), Soft Landing, Cumulus Think Tank No. 3, 53-68.  Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture.

Niinimäki, K., Groth, C. & Kääriäinen, P. (2018). NEW SILK: Studying Experimental Touchpoints between Material Science, Synthetic Biology, Design and Art. Temes de Disseny, 34, 32-41.

Tenhunen, T. M., Moslemian, O., Kammiovirta, K., Harlin, A., Kääriäinen, P., Österberg, M., Tammelin, T. & Orelma, H. (2018). Surface tailoring and design-driven prototyping of fabrics with 3D-printing: An all-cellulose approach. Materials and Design, 140, 409-419.

Valle Noronha, J. (2018). A partilha da moda através de um olhar centrado no uso. Revista de Design, Tecnologia e Sociedade, 5(1), 84-88.

Valle Noronha, J., & Wilde, D. (2018). The intervened wardrobe: Making visible the agency of clothes. dObra[s], 10(23), 197-217.

Valle Noronha, J., & Assis, J. (2018). Disrupting Expectations: The case of an experimental pattern cutting workshop. In Anais do Colóquio de Moda: 14º Colóquio de Moda - 11ª Edição Internacional (Vol. 1). Curitiba.

Valle Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K., & Kujala, S. (2018). Notes on wearer–worn attachments: Learning to wear. Clothing Cultures, 5(2), 225-246.

Valle Noronha, J. (2018). Practice-based research in fashion: a literature review. In Anais do Colóquio de Moda: 14º Colóquio de Moda - 11ª Edição Internacional (Vol. 1). Curitiba.

Valle Noronha, J., & Chun, N. (2018). Em direção à prática para além do design de moda: Um estudo sobre a pesquisa de moda na educação brasileira. IARA, 10(1), 29-44.


Chun, N. & Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Towards practice beyond fashion design: studying fashion design research in Brazilian higher education. In Dantas Mendes, F. (ed.) Fashion education for the future: Sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions, 17-22. São Paulo: EACH / USP.

Durrani, M., Ravnløkke, L., & Niinimäki, K. (2017). Shared Emotional Values in Sustainable Clothing Design Approaches. In Circular Transitions Conference, Chelsea College of Arts & Tate Britain, London.

Hirscher, A.-L. & Mazé, R. (2017). Negotiating values in design: A case of establishing and running a co-sewing café. In NORDES – Nordic Design Research Conference, 15-17 June 2017, Oslo, Norway.

Kääriäinen, P., Niinimäki, K. & Lindberg, A. (2017). CHEMARTSING – an experimental, multidisciplinary, collaborative and future oriented pedagogy with wood based biomaterials. In Bang, A. L., Mikkelsen, M. & Flinck, A. (Eds.), REDO: Cumulus Conference Proceedings, 252-259. Cumulus association.

Salolainen, M., Partanen, J., Moslemian, O., Suorlahti, E., Kiviluoma, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2017). Crossing over Boundaries through Experimental Pedagogy. In Bang, A. L., Mikkelsen, M. & Flinck, A. (Eds.), REDO: Cumulus Conference Proceedings, 156-168. Cumulus association.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). On the agency of clothes: Surprise as a tool towards stronger engagements. In Research Through Design 2017, 21-24 March 2017, Edinburgh, Scotland.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). The body within the clothes: A case study on embodiment in clothing design. In Art of Research Conference 2017, Helsinki, Finland.

Valle-Noronha, J. and Chun, N. (2017). Em direção à prática para além do design de moda: Um estudo sobre a pesquisa de moda na educação brasileira. IARA, 10(1), 29-44.

Valle-Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K., Kujala, S. (2017). UX Curve. In Fletcher, K. & Klepp, I. (Eds.) Opening up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book. Oslo: Novus. 

Valle-Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K. (2017). Fashion Design Probes. In Fletcher, K. & Klepp, I. (Eds.) Opening up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book. Oslo: Novus. 

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Time as a design space: Designing surprise in clothing experience and maintenance. In Annals of the 13º Colóquio de Moda. Bauru: UNESP.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Moda Autoral: Pela compreensão de um modo de fazer (roupas). In Dantas Mendes, F. (ed.) A Moda e suas Interfaces, 63-72. São Paulo: EACH/USP.

Fashion/Textile Futures

The Fashion/Textile Futures research group explores new perspectives on human-centered design research. The group approaches research in the field of fashion, clothing and textiles in multi-faceted ways.

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A coat made of Ioncell. Design: Anna-Mari Leppisaari. Photo: Eeva Suorlahti
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