Department of Design

FTF publications

This site features the most recent academic contributions of Fashion/Textile Futures research group.


Chun, N. (2021). Fashion Design Rediscovered: A Theory on Dressmaking. The Design Journal, 24(1), 97-114.

Chun, N. (2021). Dressmaking Rediscovered: When Design Meets Fashion in Helsinki. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture. (forthcoming).

Niinimäki, K. (2021). Clothes Sharing in Cities; the case of fashion leasing. In J. Corcoran and T. Sigler (Eds.), The Modern Guide to the Urban Sharing Economy. Cheltenham Glos, UK: EdwardElgar publisher. (forthcoming).

Niinimäki, K., Durrani, M. & Kohtala, C. (2021). Emerging DIY Activities to Enable Well-being and Connected Societies. International Journal of Craft Research (forthcoming).

Niinimäki, K. & Turunen, L. (2021). Value-driven fashion cultures through eco-luxury. In P. Bertola et al. (Eds.)Fashioning social innovation; Design empowering communities to foster sustainability in culture intensive industries. In part II: Fashion cultures and sustainability. Florence, Italy:Mandragora publisher. (forthcoming).

Piippo, R. & Niinimäki, K. (2021). Garment quality and product lifetimes. PLATE Product Lifetimes and The Environment 2021 - Conference Proceedings. The University of Limerick, 26-28 May.


Airaksinen, M., Räsänen, O., Ilen, E., Häyrinen, T., Kivi, A., Marchi, V., Gallen, A., Blom, S., Varhe, A., Kaartinen, N., Haataja, L., Vanhatalo, S. (2020). Automatic Posture and Movement Tracking of Infants with Wearable Movement Sensors. Scientific reports, 10(1), 1-13.

Groth, C. Pevere, M., Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2020). Conditions for Experiential Knowledge Exchange in Collaborative Research Across the Sciences and Creative Practice. CoDesign International Journal of CoCreation in Design and the Arts, 12(4), 328-344.

Karell, E. & Niinimäki, K. (2020). A Mixed-Method Study of Design Practices and Designers’ Roles in Sustainable-Minded Clothing Companies. Sustainability, 12(11), 4680. 

Mohajeri, B., Kauranen, I., Nyberg, T., Ilen, E., Nelson, M. & Gang, X. (2020). Improving sustainability in the value chain of the apparel industry empowered with social manufacturing. Proceedings of the 15th IEEE Conference on Industrial Electronics and Applications, ICIEA 2020. IEEE, 235-240.

Niinimäki, K. & Durrani, M. (2020). Repairing fashion cultures: From disposable to repairable. In McNeill, L. (ed.), Transitioning to Responsible Consumption and Production. Basel: MDPI AG, 154-168.

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T. and Gwilt, A. (2020). The Environmental Price of Fast Fashion. Nature Reviews; Earth and Environment, 1, 189–200.

Niinimäki, K. & Karell, E. (2020). Closing the Loop: Intentional Fashion Design Defined by Recycling Technologies. In Vignali, G., Reid, L. F., Ryding, D. & Henninger, C. (Eds.), Technology-Driven Sustainability: Innovation in the Fashion Supply Chain, 7-25. Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan.

Valle-Noronha, J., Chun, N., & Assis, J. (2020). Failed Expectations, Successful Disruptions: Experimenting pattern-cutting from a student-centred learning perspectiveInternational Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education.

Veske, P. & Ilen, E. (2020). Review of the end-of-life solutions in electronics based smart textiles. Journal of Textile Institute.


Chun, N., Gurova, O. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Fashion Dreams or Fashion Business. Helsinki as an Emerging Fashion Scene. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 55, 238-258.

Durrani, M., Niinimäki, K. & McLaughlan, S. (2019). Designing for and with Garment Repair: an Exploration of Future Possibilities. In PLATE (Product Lifetimes and the Environment) - 3rd International Conference, 18-20 September 2019, Berlin, Germany.

Groth, C., Pevere, M., Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). When Art meets Science: Conditions for experiential knowledge exchange in interdisciplinary research on new materials. In EKSIG, International conference of the DRS special interest group on experiential knowledge, 23-24 September, Tallinn, Estonia.

Harlin, A., Jussila, K., & Ilen, E. (2019). Smart Textiles and Garments. In P. Roshan (Ed.), High Performance Techical Textiles, 1 ed, 58-61. USA: John Wiley & Sons Inc.

Henniger, C., Bürklin, N. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). The Swapping Phenomenon – When Consumers become Suppliers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 23(3), 327-344.

Hirscher, A.L., Mazzarella, F., Fuad-Luke, A. (2019). Socializing Value Creation Through Practices of Making Clothing Differently: A Case Study of a Makershop With Diverse Locals, Fashion Practice, 11(1), 53-80.

Hirscher, A.L., Mazé, R. (2019). Stuff Matters in Participation: Infrastructuring a Co-Sewing Café. Journal of Peer Production. Issue 13.

Ilen, E., Acosta Leinonen, N., Ranta, J., Airaksinen, M., Haataja, L., & Vanhatalo, S. (2019). User Experience of Wearable Infant Sleep Monitoring System for Medical Research and Diagnostics. In Proceedings of the 19th World Textile Conference, Universiteit Gent.

Ilen, E., Groth, C., Ahola, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Empathy in a Technology Driven Design Process: Designing for Users without a Voice of their Own. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Espoo, Finland.

Karell, E., & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Addressing the Dialogue between Design, Sorting and Recycling in a Circular Economy. The Design Journal, 22(sup1), 997-1013.

Karell, E. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Deconstructing the Clothing Design Process for a Circular Economy. In PLATE (Product Lifetimes and the Environment) - 3rd International Conference, 18-20 September 2019, Berlin, Germany.

Kääriäinen, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Towards sustainable textile materials: Potential Pathways and Dialogues between Disciplines. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Espoo, Finland.

Määttänen, M., Asikainen, S., Kamppuri, T, Ilen, E., Niinimäki, K., Tanttu, M., Harlin, A. (2019). Colour management in CE; Decolourization of cotton waste. Research Journal of Textiles and Apparel, 23(2), 134-152.

Niinimäki, K. (2019). Renewing technology-driven materials research through an experimental co-design approach. The Design Journal, 22(sup1), 1775-1785. 

Nimkulrat, N., Kuusk, K., Valle-Noronha, J., Groth, C. & Tomico, O. (eds.) (2019). Knowing Together - Experiential Knowledge and Collaboration. Estonian Academy of Arts: Tallinn.

Salolainen, M., Leppisaari, A. & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Transforming Fashion Expression through Textile Thinking. Arts, 8(1), 3.

Tubito, C., Earley, B., Ellams, D., Goldsworthy, K., Hornbuckle, R., Niinimäki, K., Östmark, E., Sarbach, V. & Tanttu, M. (2019). Applied DDMI: A white paper on how design-driven material innovation methodology was applied in the Trash-2-Cash project. A Trash-2-Cash project report.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). Becoming with Clothes. Activating wearer-worn engagements through design. Doctoral dissertation. Espoo, Finland: Aalto ARTS Books.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). On active pricing or A critical perspective on end of season sales in fashion retail. Annals of the 15º Colóquio de Moda, 2-6 September 2019, Porto Alegre, Unisinos. 

Valle-Noronha, J. (2019). The body within the clothes. Ruukku (10).

Valle Noronha, J., & Valle Noronha, M. (2019). Iron while still damp. In NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Nordic Design Research Conference, Espoo, Finland.


Aakko, M. & Niinimäki, K. (2018). Fashion Designers as Entrepreneurs: Challenges and Advantages of Micro-size Companies. Fashion Practice, 10(3), 354–380.

Aakko, M. (2018). Unfolding Artisanal Fashion. Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 23(4-5), 531-552.

Durrani, M. (2018). The becoming of repair: Understanding garment mending through a practice theory perspective. In  Heuer, M., & Becker-Leifhold, C. (Eds.). Eco-friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behaviour. Routledge.

Durrani, M. (2018). Designers by any other name: Exploring the sociomaterial practices of vernacular garment menders. In Design Research Society International Conference: Catalyst. DRS International Conference Series, 4, 1731-1746.

Durrani, M. (2018). “People Gather for Stranger Things, So Why Not This?” Learning Sustainable Sensibilities through Communal Garment-Mending Practices. Sustainability, 10(7), 2218.

Hirscher, A.L., Niinimäki, K., Armstrong, C. (2018). Social Manufacturing in the Fashion sector: New value creation through alternative design strategies? Journal of Cleaner Production, 172, 4544-4554.

Karell, E. (2018). Design for Circularity: The Case of In K. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy, 96-127. Espoo, Finland: Aalto ARTS Books.

Kataja, K. & Kääriäinen, P. (eds.) (2018). Designing Cellulose for the Future: Design-Driven Value Chains in the World of Cellulose (DWoC) 2013-2018. Final project report. Helsinki: Copy-Set.

Lucero Vera, A., Karyda, M., Hirskyj-Douglas, I. & Moslemian, O. (Eds.) (2018). Proceedings of SIDeR ‘18: 14th Student Interaction Design Research Conference. Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture.

Niinimäki, K., Salolainen, M., & Kääriäinen, P. (2018). Opening up New Textile Futures through Collaborative Rethinking and Remaking. In N. Nimkulrat, U. Raebild, & A. Piper (Eds.), Soft Landing, Cumulus Think Tank No. 3, 53-68.  Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture.

Niinimäki, K., Groth, C. & Kääriäinen, P. (2018). NEW SILK: Studying Experimental Touchpoints between Material Science, Synthetic Biology, Design and Art. Temes de Disseny, 34, 32-41.

Tenhunen, T. M., Moslemian, O., Kammiovirta, K., Harlin, A., Kääriäinen, P., Österberg, M., Tammelin, T. & Orelma, H. (2018). Surface tailoring and design-driven prototyping of fabrics with 3D-printing: An all-cellulose approach. Materials and Design, 140, 409-419.

Valle Noronha, J. (2018). A partilha da moda através de um olhar centrado no uso. Revista de Design, Tecnologia e Sociedade, 5(1), 84-88.

Valle Noronha, J., & Wilde, D. (2018). The intervened wardrobe: Making visible the agency of clothes. dObra[s], 10(23), 197-217.

Valle Noronha, J., & Assis, J. (2018). Disrupting Expectations: The case of an experimental pattern cutting workshop. In Anais do Colóquio de Moda: 14º Colóquio de Moda - 11ª Edição Internacional (Vol. 1). Curitiba.

Valle Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K., & Kujala, S. (2018). Notes on wearer–worn attachments: Learning to wear. Clothing Cultures, 5(2), 225-246.

Valle Noronha, J. (2018). Practice-based research in fashion: a literature review. In Anais do Colóquio de Moda: 14º Colóquio de Moda - 11ª Edição Internacional (Vol. 1). Curitiba.

Valle Noronha, J., & Chun, N. (2018). Em direção à prática para além do design de moda: Um estudo sobre a pesquisa de moda na educação brasileira. IARA, 10(1), 29-44.


Chun, N. & Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Towards practice beyond fashion design: studying fashion design research in Brazilian higher education. In Dantas Mendes, F. (ed.) Fashion education for the future: Sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions, 17-22. São Paulo: EACH / USP.

Durrani, M., Ravnløkke, L., & Niinimäki, K. (2017). Shared Emotional Values in Sustainable Clothing Design Approaches. In Circular Transitions Conference, Chelsea College of Arts & Tate Britain, London.

Hirscher, A.-L. & Mazé, R. (2017). Negotiating values in design: A case of establishing and running a co-sewing café. In NORDES – Nordic Design Research Conference, 15-17 June 2017, Oslo, Norway.

Kääriäinen, P., Niinimäki, K. & Lindberg, A. (2017). CHEMARTSING – an experimental, multidisciplinary, collaborative and future oriented pedagogy with wood based biomaterials. In Bang, A. L., Mikkelsen, M. & Flinck, A. (Eds.), REDO: Cumulus Conference Proceedings, 252-259. Cumulus association.

Salolainen, M., Partanen, J., Moslemian, O., Suorlahti, E., Kiviluoma, P. & Niinimäki, K. (2017). Crossing over Boundaries through Experimental Pedagogy. In Bang, A. L., Mikkelsen, M. & Flinck, A. (Eds.), REDO: Cumulus Conference Proceedings, 156-168. Cumulus association.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). On the agency of clothes: Surprise as a tool towards stronger engagements. In Research Through Design 2017, 21-24 March 2017, Edinburgh, Scotland.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). The body within the clothes: A case study on embodiment in clothing design. In Art of Research Conference 2017, Helsinki, Finland.

Valle-Noronha, J. and Chun, N. (2017). Em direção à prática para além do design de moda: Um estudo sobre a pesquisa de moda na educação brasileira. IARA, 10(1), 29-44.

Valle-Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K., Kujala, S. (2017). UX Curve. In Fletcher, K. & Klepp, I. (Eds.) Opening up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book. Oslo: Novus. 

Valle-Noronha, J., Niinimäki, K. (2017). Fashion Design Probes. In Fletcher, K. & Klepp, I. (Eds.) Opening up the Wardrobe: A Methods Book. Oslo: Novus. 

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Time as a design space: Designing surprise in clothing experience and maintenance. In Annals of the 13º Colóquio de Moda. Bauru: UNESP.

Valle-Noronha, J. (2017). Moda Autoral: Pela compreensão de um modo de fazer (roupas). In Dantas Mendes, F. (ed.) A Moda e suas Interfaces, 63-72. São Paulo: EACH/USP.

Fashion/Textile Futures

The Fashion/Textile Futures research group explores new perspectives on human-centered design research. The group approaches research in the field of fashion, clothing and textiles in multi-faceted ways.

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A coat made of Ioncell. Design: Anna-Mari Leppisaari. Photo: Eeva Suorlahti
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