The Näytös Award in the annual fashion show for Aalto University’s School of Arts, Design and Architecture Master's and Bachelor's students in fashion was awarded to Bachelor's student Ruusa Vuori for the collection, which the jury called "an accomplished collection where every piece was on point”.
Vuori's collection is based on the body as subject. In her collection, the designer, who has a background in dance, explores the field of embodied knowledge and breaking away from the physical outlines of the body, liberation from the self, as well as the perception of personal space. According to Vuori, clothes can expand or contract the wearer's personal space – they have the ability to form a shell or invite one in, to open or close and to draw boundaries or break them. Contrasting materials and their manipulation by hand have been an integral part of the working method.
‘I have a difficult relationship with the industry and I don't really know how to place what I design in it, so it's easier to talk about a wearable than a garment. The garment feels too clear-cut from the outline’, Vuori explains.
The jury for Näytös23 was composed of French fashion designer and consultant Alice Bouleau, American stylist and artist Akeem Smith and curator Ilari Laamanen from New York.
The collections shown on the catwalk were praised for their professional quality and craftsmanship. They also show a critical attitude towards the industry and its operating models and material choices.
The students' collections again this year emphasise the sustainability of fashion, with many collections using recycled and reused materials. Another important theme is non-discrimination in fashion: young designers are challenging the prevailing body norms, said Ilona Hyötyläinen, Head of the fashion major.
The Finnish Textile and Fashion Prize was awarded to Elina Silina, a Master's student. The jury was impressed by the professional, polished and finished execution of her womenswear collection and its commercial viability. The jury praised the wearability of the collection and its sustainability, especially in terms of the eco-friendliness of the materials – the wool used in the collection is from locally reared sheep and dyed in natural dyes.
The Marimekko Prize was awarded to Kuutti Lemmetyinen, a Bachelor's student who has worked on his collection by exploring the idea of clothing: what it hides inside and how it makes different surfaces and layers. The core question has been to explore the boundaries of the garment, what it is and what it is not. The contrast between materials is also one of the cornerstones of the collection.
The jury praised the collection's strong concept and intelligent approach. They also commented on the collection's fresh and contemporary execution makes innovative use of materials.
The Fiskars Prize was awarded to Risto Kirjonen, a Bachelor's student, for his collection inspired by early 1900s mountaineering gear, its ruggedness, functionality and practicality. The collection was praised for its attention to detail and craftsmanship – every detail feels necessary and contributes to the overall look and feel of the garment. The jury commented that the collection skillfully uses durable, functional materials in a way that stretches the boundaries between functional clothing and high fashion.
The annual Aalto student fashion show, held on Friday 26 May at Aalto University's Otaniemi campus in Espoo, is one of Finland's most important fashion events and part of the wider Fashion in Helsinki week.
For more information:
Ilona Hyötyläinen, Head of BA Fashion design major, Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture, +358 50 3030530, ilona.hyotylainen@aalto.fi
Elina Peltonen, lecturer, Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture, elina.peltonen@aalto.fi
Aalto University's student fashion show Näytös23 will take place on the Otaniemi campus on Friday 26 May at 20:00. You can follow the invitation-only event on Instagram @aalto_fashion
